The latest bombings in Kabul took place at a complex that is familiar to me — it contains a surprisingly Western shopping center, a hotel and a conference facility. When I traveled to Afghanistan in 2007, my team used the conference room for our final presentation, and concluded our visit by taking a picture on the roof, surrounded by the glorious backdrop of mountains and bright sky. My colleague Ken has returned to Afghanistan and was near the hotel two days ago, when it was attacked. (The hotel where we stayed, the Serena, had been attacked back in January 2008). This is from Ken:
I’m in Kabul at the moment. At 6:32 am (yesterday) I felt the blast. Our compund is about a mile away. I jumped up, put on my clothes and tried to go to our roof to see where it was. I knew it was over by the park on Shari Naw. But my security didn’t let me on the roof because there were small arms firing. With nothing else to do I went back to sleep on a Friday, in my clothes, at the ready. Two hours later I tried to cross the street to go to breakfast but was denied. Lock down - eat in your room. Of course my meeting at USAID (on a Friday) was postponed until Sat. Four hours later I found a friend and we went to the roof to look out. However, security still motioned us to go down, but they did allow us to cross the street to our offices and dining area. Of course I got a finger wagging that I shouldn’t peer out from the roof when there were IEDs and SAF going on all around. He didn’t realize I always wanted to see the muzzle blast before I would shoot back, and that takes a piercing eye, well-focused and in the right direction. Alas, this time I had no weapon so perhaps he was right. When I was here in ‘04 I always went right to the blast areas to see what I could do and what I could see. Stupid I guess. Coincidence, one of my drivers was a guard on my house back then.
The blast was around the corner from the Safi Landmark where we all took that famous picture on the roof. It targeted the Noor Guest house, on a small street across or behind the hotel, I can’t place it exactly from Al Jezeera news photos. But it was right there. They said across from the Park and on a side street. The Park Residence is right there also. Kind of the main cross roads of Shari Naw St. I had planned to go to the Delhi Dabar restaurant the night before with a USAID friend, but my security didn’t allow us to go there. 8 hours later it was blown up. The Safi Hotel had lots of damage. You’ve seen the rest on the news. They targeted the Indians for some reason - third time these blasts have targeted Indians.
No, I haven’t been in Marjah but I’m designing the seed voucher package to go in as soon as we secure the place, very soon. We’re thinking about cotton, along with fruit saplings and high value vegetable seeds - not wheat. Down in Nawa, a little to the South of Lashkah Gar the Military is going to give out cotton seeds (based on our recommendations - with the low price of poppy, cotton produces more per hectare than poppy), and so I have to get the Bost Ginnery going in Lashkah Gar and the Kandahar Spinning and Weaving plant (25,000 employees).
The next move for the military is Kandahar City, where I live - I’ll be returning tomorrow. (I cover Value Chains - post-harvest handling and Overall Program Design for both Helmand and Kandahar) We are just expanding our Kandahar program to cover the 6 Districts surrounding Kandahar City to the South, doing Cash for Work, Fruit Tree distributions, vegetables seeds, and grants. I’m trying to get a raisin factory rehabbed, a Cold Store functioning again, rebuilding and relocating the wholesale market, installing vegetable dryers all around, building plastic greenhouses for intensive vegetables, introducing a tannery, and getting the cotton, wool and cashmere factory started again. I have to figure out how to sell the fruit and vegetables that are generated by our Supply Push project. We have lots of money and no time left. I’ve got to do it in the next six months. Hey, we’re going to win this time. McChrystal’s new strategy of “clear, hold and build” - which ends with our Sustainable AG Strategy is going to do the trick, I’m convinced. We’ll see. I figure the pull out will begin in 16 months. We have to win now. Jobs are the answer, sustainable high value agriculture (horticulture) the engine.
We toasted Charlie that night at our cookout on the roof of our compound in Kandahar. Have you all read the history of Helmand, going back to Morrison-Knudsen in 1954 when they started building the Helmand Valley Authority, like the TVA? Fascinating reading. That’s where Marjah is.
Here’s to our team! Thank God we weren’t on the roof of the Safi Hotel yesterday morning.
Cheers, Ken
And here are the comments of another friend who spent 18 months in Afghanistan:
It’s awful. That’s all there is to say. Like many many many ex-pats and Afghans I was at the city center or driving by daily for a year and half; lived a block away, again like many people. Right when I heard about the attack I thought immediately of Jawid, a kid who couldn’t have been more than 5 and sold gum in front of one of the entrances to the Landmark. He was impossibly cute and always had his baseball hat cocked to the side. Every now and then I’d buy some gum from him. Then he learned my name, after which it was very hard not to just give him money.
Surely since the attack happened so early he couldn’t have been there, but that is no comfort for all the people killed or injured. In Pakistan I was near enough to two suicide detonations and now, after an attack in Pune, it seems that perhaps ex-pats in India are being targeted. Like the title of Dexter Filkins’ book, maybe this is the “forever war.”